Peptides have become one of the most talked about skincare ingredients, with them being included in every skincare product from serums to moisturizers and from eye creams to targeted skincare treatments.
Whilst peptides are one of the most talked about skincare ingredients, what do they even do? Why should you look for skincare products with peptides included within the ingredients list?
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are seen as being tiny messengers within your skin, and contain short chains of amino acids – which are the same building blocks found within proteins.
You’ll see peptides in modern skincare products, because they’re easy to include and they help with targeting specific skincare goals many people have.
There are different types of peptides, like signal peptides, carrier peptides, enzyme inhibiting peptides and even neuropeptides, all of which give different skincare benefits, like smoothing the appearance of your fine lines, supporting your skin’s firmness and even improving the feel of hydration within your skin.
There are different ways in which skincare brands source their peptides. Some skincare brands use lab-made bioidentical versions for consistency, stability and also purity. Plus, the way you apply your skincare products matter – like applying your peptide serum to clean, slightly damp skin, and then sealing it in with moisturizer and daily use, to give you the best results.
How Peptides Work At The Cellular Level
Peptides don’t build collagen directly, but they can influence the signals your skin cells respond to, by interacting with the receptors on the cell’s surface and “nudging” the pathways involved in the skin’s repair, inflammation control and the extracellular matrix maintenance.
When you apply them, the short amino-acid chains act like little message fragments, supporting your skin’s cellular communication between keratinocytes and fibroblasts. This “messaging” can up-shift the cues tied to collagen synthesis and elastin organization, to help your skin look firmer over time.
Peptides will also give you anti-inflammatory benefits, as they can temper any irritation signals which might slow down your skin’s recovery, and trigger unwanted uneven texture.
With the stress responses being calmed, you’re creating a better environment for steady skin renewal, as well as visible skin rejuvenation.
Some peptides actually encourage lipid balance and tighter junction activity, so your skin’s barrier function will hold moisture more effectively as well as resisting daily aggressors.
Peptides Vs. Retinoids And Vitamin C
Peptides set the tone for your skin’s repair by guiding cellular signals, but retinoids and vitamin C push skin change through different mechanisms and also timelines.
With peptides, they improve firmness, give you a smoother texture and also calmer-looking skin, without forcing the skin’s rapid turnover.
Retinoids accelerate cell renewal and also collagen activity, so the results can look dramatic, but retinoids often cause irritation issues, and you’ll have a longer adjustment period, after introducing retinoids into your skincare routine.
When it comes to Vitamin C, it will give you quicker, noticeable radiance results, because Vitamin C neutralizes oxidative stress as well as helping to improve uneven skintone, whilst also supporting collagen.
How To Build Peptides Into Your Routine Safely And Effectively
It is best to use peptides after cleansing and toning your skin, but before you apply your heavier creams and oils, so they’ll penetrate your skin well.
If you’re new to using peptides, start by applying them once a day and move onto both morning and night as your skin adapts.
Look for peptide serums with simple formulas, especially if you have sensitive or reactive skin, and try to avoid stacking too many skincare actives at first, to avoid irritation issues.
Try and stick to a clear and simple skincare layering order, with a water-based peptide serum first, then your hydrator, your moisturizer and lastly your sunscreen (in the morning).
Your application techniques also matter, so try to apply to a slightly damp skin using gentle pressing (instead of rubbing), and keep the amounts small but consistent.